Step 1

Clamp your shock in a soft-jawed vice. Remove the black air cap and thread on your FOX shock pump. Slowly release all air from the main air chamber with your pump, then remove the pump.

Step 2

Thread a cloth rag through the body eyelet of your shock, then unthread the air sleeve. Unthread the rag and pull the air sleeve off to remove. 

Step 3

Turn the blue compression adjust lever and the red rebound knob to the open position (fully counter-clockwise).

Step 4

Using a pick tool, remove the nylon plug to access the pellet screw. Use a 5/32" hex to release the nitrogen pressure and remove the pellet retainer. Remove the pellet with the pick tool.

Step 5

TIP: Poke a hole in a lint-free paper towel and stretch it over your shock damper to collect oil from this step.

Clamp the shock vertically and use a 5/64" hex to slowly remove the bleed screw. Use a magnet to remove the ball from under the bleed screw. Unthread the bearing assembly from the shock body with a 3/4in wrench. Position your wrench so the wrench does not apply torque to the bleed hole.

Step 6

Remove the shaft assembly from the body and pour out the damper oil. Remove the IFP using carefully applied air pressure. Inspect the body for damage or excessive wear.

Step 7

Remove the IFP o-ring and inspect its gland on the piston itself for any damage or contamination. Apply Slick Honey grease to the new IFP o-ring from the replacement seal kit, and install it on the piston.

Step 8

Apply a very thin film of Slick Honey to the inside of the shock body, then insert the IFP with it's slot facing up. Adjust your IFP depth setting tool (PN: 803-00-566) to the correct IFP depth for your shock. Use your IFP depth setting tool to push the IFP down to it's appropriate depth.

Step 9

Install a new pellet from the service kit with the flat side facing up, then lightly secure with the pellet retainer.

Step 10

Prefill the shock body with oil. FLOAT DPS shocks use FOX 10wt. green oil, while FLOAT SL shocks use FOX 4wt. oil. Pour oil down the side to minimize potential aeration of the oil. Set the body aside in a vertical position and move on to the next step. This allows time for any trapped air to escape.

Step 11

Clamp the eyelet assembly in your soft-jawed vice and carefully lift up on the lockout plate to remove.

Step 12

Use the FLOAT DPS lockout piston tool (PN: 398-00-638) to unthread the lockout piston from the piston assembly.

Step 13

Remove the lockout piston then remove the lockout shim stack with a magnet.

Step 14

Use the FLOAT DPS piston bolt tool (PN: 398-00-637) or the FLOAT SL piston tool (PN: 398-00-950) to unthread the piston bolt. Remove the piston assembly and set it aside.

Step 15

Remove the bearing assembly by lifting it off the shaft. Remove the bottom out o-ring and bottom out plate.

Step 16

Clean the shaft with Isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free paper towel. Carefully clamp the shaft in your 9mm shaft clamps (PN: 803-00-805).

Step 17

Carefully apply heat to the connection between the shaft and the eyelet with a propane torch for 5-10 seconds to break down the Loctite. Unthread the eyelet counter-clockwise, then lift up to remove.

Step 18

Remove the rebound metering rod by pulling it up and out of the shaft. Be careful not to lose the small ball bearing at the square end of the rebound metering rod. Carefully remove any Loctite residue from the shaft and eyelet with a plastic pick tool.

Step 19

Carefully remove the o-ring from inside the shaft with a pick tool. A blunt tool like a small hex wrench can be used inside the shaft to push the o-ring out once pulled away from the wall with the pick tool.

Step 1

The Factory and Performance Elite Series eyelet assemblies are identical to each other but different from the Performance Series eyelet. For instructions to service the Performance Series eyelet assembly you can skip to that section by going to Performance Series Eyelet Rebuild »

Step 2

Use a 1.5 mm hex wrench to remove the set screw from the top of the eyelet assembly. Remove the DPS lever assembly by pulling it out of the eyelet. Be careful not to lose the detent ball from behind the lever assembly. Remove the detent spring with a pick. Clean the bare eyelet and set aside.

Step 3

Use a 1.5mm hex wrench to unthread the rebound knob set screw. Remove the red rebound knob by pulling it away from the lever assembly. Remove the cam by pulling it out of the lever assembly from the back. Use a thin shim to remove the small retaining ring that holds the black adjuster to the blue compression selector lever.

Step 4

Insert the black adjuster into the blue compression selector lever followed by the spring, spring retainer, and retaining ring. Compress the spring against the blue compression selector lever to make room to install the retaining ring. Reinstall the red rebound knob and tighten the 1.5mm set screw to 5 in-lb (0.6 Nm) torque. Coat the cam and spring with a film of waterproof grease such as Sta-Lube SL3125.

Step 5

Insert the greased detent spring into the small hole in the face of the eyelet, followed by the detent ball. Carefully insert the lever assembly into the eyelet without dislodging the detent ball and spring. Compress the detent spring by pushing the lever assembly into the eyelet, then install and gently tighten the set screw in the top of the eyelet fully, then back it out 1/4 turn.

Step 1

Use a 1.5 mm hex wrench to remove the set screw from the top of the eyelet assembly. Remove the DPS lever assembly by pulling it out of the eyelet. Be careful not to lose the detent ball from behind the lever assembly. Remove the detent spring with a pick. Clean the bare eyelet and set aside.

Step 2

Use a 1.5mm hex wrench to unthread the set screw in the blue compression selector lever. Separate the blue lever from the cam and the red rebound knob. 

Step 3

Coat the cam in waterproof grease such as Sta-Lube SL3125 then insert it into the red rebound knob from the back. Coat the parts of the rebound knob that will be within the eyelet with waterproof grease. Reinstall the blue compression selector lever and tighten its set screw against the depression in the cam with a 1.5mm hex wrench to 5 in-lb (0.6 Nm).

Step 4

Insert the greased detent spring into the small hole in the face of the eyelet, followed by the detent ball. Carefully insert the lever assembly into the eyelet without dislodging the detent ball and spring. Compress the detent spring by pushing the lever assembly into the eyelet, then install and gently tighten the set screw in the top of the eyelet fully, then back it out 1/4 turn.

Step 1

Remove the red rebound knob and blue remote pulley by unthreading (counter-clockwise) their 1.5mm set screws. Do not completely remove the set screws from the knobs before setting the knobs aside.

Step 2

Remove the round wire retaining ring, then remove the housing stop. 

Step 3

Use a 2.5mm hex wrench to unthread (counter-clockwise) and remove the base plate fixing bolt. Remove the spacer and base plate.

Step 4

Remove the torsion spring. 

Step 5

Remove the cams by pulling them out of the eyelet. Separate the cams for cleaning.

Step 6

Coat the cams and torsion spring with a thin film of waterproof grease such as Sta-Lube SL3125. Align the tang of the spring with the slot in the cam.  

Step 7

Insert the cams and torsion spring into the eyelet assembly, then align the notch in the back of the base plate with the other tang of the torsion spring. 

Step 8

Hold the base plate as you insert the spacer followed by the fixing screw. Tighten the screw to 25 in-lb (2.8 Nm) with your 2.5mm hex wrench.

Step 9

Install the housing stop in your chosen orientation, then secure it with the round wire retaining ring.

Step 10

Install the blue pulley onto the flat sided cam. Lightly tighten the pulley fixing screw without seating the pulley completely against the housing stop.

Step 11

Use a 1.5mm hex wrench in the cable pinch bolt to help wind the pulley clockwise past the pulley stop feature on the black housing stop. After winding past the pulley stop, press the blue pulley down against the black housing stop. 

Step 12

Tighten the pulley fixing screw to 5 in-lb (0.6 Nm) with your 1.5mm hex wrench.

Step 13

Reinstall the red rebound knob. Align the set screw with the depression in the rebound cam. Tighten the set screw to 5 in-lb (0.6 Nm) with your 1.5mm hex wrench.

Step 1

Coat the new o-ring from the kit with Slick Honey and install it into the shaft using blunt tools such as hex wrenches to fit it into position within its seal groove. 

Step 2

Replace the square cut o-ring in the end of the rebound metering rod with a new greased one from the kit. Coat the narrow end of the rebound metering rod with a thin film of Slick Honey and carefully insert it into the internal shaft o-ring to seat it completely within its groove.

Step 3

Reinstall the spring onto the rebound metering rod. Coat the metering rod with a thin film of Slick Honey, then install it into the shaft with the square end of the metering rod nearest the external shaft threads. Be careful not to damage the o-ring inside the shaft when inserting the metering rod.

Step 4

Replace the two o-rings within the eyelet with new greased ones from the kit. Reinstall the eyelet bushings to prepare to tighten it to the shaft in the next step.

Step 5

Apply a small drop of red Loctite 277 to the shaft threads.

F-S and P-Se shocks: Install the shaft into the eyelet with the ball bearing on the metering rod oriented toward the back of the shock.

P-S shocks: Install the shaft into the eyelet with the ball bearing on the metering rod oriented toward the front of the shock.

Step 6

Clean the shaft with Isopropyl alcohol then clamp it in your 9mm shaft clamps. Use your eyelet torque tool (PN: 398-00-280) to tighten the eyelet to 85 in-lb (9.6 Nm) torque.

Step 7

Reinstall the bottom out plate followed by a new bottom out o-ring from the kit.

Step 8

Replace the two o-rings within the bearing assembly with new greased ones from the kit. Coat the shaft with a thin film of Slick Honey, then reinstall the bearing assembly onto the shaft.

Step 9

Install the valving assembly up to the piston bolt. Tighten the piston bolt clockwise with the FLOAT DPS piston bolt tool (398-00-637) or the FLOAT SL piston tool (PN: 398-00-950) to 60 in-lb (6.8 Nm).

Step 10

Reinstall the lockout shim stack, followed by the lockout piston. Tighten the lockout piston clockwise to 22 in-lb (2.5 Nm) with the FLOAT DPS lockout piston tool (PN: 398-00-638).

Step 11

Insert the compression rod through the lockout piston, being careful not to damage the o-ring within the rebound metering rod or bending the compression rod. Only press against the bolt in the center of the lockout plate when installing the compression rod.

Step 12

Use the shock dial indicator (PN: 803-00-806 and 398-00-574) to measure lockout plate lift. 

For Lever models: When switching from Firm to Medium modes, Lockout plate lift should measure between 0.030-0.047in (0.77-1.19mm).

For Remote models: When switching from Firm to Open modes, Lockout plate lift should measure between 0.072-0.090in (1.83-2.29mm).

1 or 2 spacers (044-20-035 or 044-10-035) may be added or removed from the lockout shim stack to adjust lockout plate lift to within approved range.

Step 13

Turn the red rebound knob and blue compression selector lever to their open positions (fully counter-clockwise).

Slide the bearing assembly toward the piston assembly, then pre-fill the piston assembly with oil. FLOAT DPS shocks use FOX 10wt. green oil, while FLOAT SL shocks use FOX 4wt. oil. Invert the shaft assembly inserting the piston assembly into the previousely prepared and filled shock body. Thread the bearing assembly onto the body then tighten to 240 in-lb (27.1 Nm) with your 3/4in crow's foot. Position your crow's foot so the wrench does not apply torque to the bleed hole in the bearing assembly.

Step 14

Insert the ball bearing followed by the bleed screw into the bleed hole in the bearing assembly. Tighten the bleed screw to 10-15 in-lb (1.1-1.7 Nm) with a 5/64" hex wrench. 

Step 15

Insert the Nitrogen Fill Pellet Retainer tool (PN: 398-00-374) into the pellet retainer near the end of the body. Use the Pellet Retainer tool to unthread the pellet retainer 1/4 turn. Depress the safety button on the nitrogen fill needle (PN: 802-01-000-KIT), then slide the shock onto the needle by pressing toward the nitrogen fill needle. Charge the IFP chamber to 500 psi. Use the Pellet Retainer tool to gently tighten the pellet retainer by 1/4 turn. Quickly pull the shock straight away from the nitrogen fill needle. A loud pop will be heard. Use a 5/32" hex wrench to tighten the pellet retainer to 14 in-lb (1.6 Nm).

Step 16

Compress the shock in all modes to test its function. Insert a new Delrin ball from the kit into the pellet retainer. Press the Delrin ball into the pellet retainer with your soft-jawed vice. 

Step 1

Remove the main air seal and backup rings from the body bearing.

Step 2

Install a new backup ring from the kit, followed by the new main air seal coated with a thin film of Slick Honey, then the second backup ring. Make sure that the overlapping portions of the backup rings are correctly position with the two beveled edges of each ring facing each other.

Step 3

Carefully remove the wiper seal, backup rings, and negative air seal from the end of the air sleeve without scratching any portion of the air sleeve. Use a plastic or wooden pick to remove the internal seals to prevent scratching the air sleeve. A scratched air sleeve can cause air loss not covered under warranty.

Step 4

Use a shim or seal pick to carefully remove the wire retaining ring from the end of the EVOL air sleeve. Pull the EVOL portion of the air sleeve off of the inner air sleeve to remove.

Step 5

Clean the air sleeve and replace the two EVOL o-rings with new greased ones from the kit.

Step 6

Reinstall the EVOL portion of the air sleeve onto the inner air sleeve. Make sure to fully seat the EVOL sleeve againt the feature in the middle of the inner air sleeve. Replace the wire retaining ring, seating it fully in the ring groove.

Step 7

Insert a new backup ring into the air sleeve followed by the new greased negative air seal and the last backup ring. These parts should fit tightly into the inner seal groove in the end of the air sleeve. Install the wiper seal with its lip facing out into the outermost seal groove. Press all parts against the wall of the air sleeve to make sure they are all seated correctly.

Step 8

Verify that the blue compression adjust lever and the red rebound knob are in the open position (fully counter-clockwise).

Step 9

Coat the main air seal and the air sleeve threads with a thin film of Float Fluid. Add 2cc of Float Fluid to the main air chamber, then slide the air sleeve in place over the main air seal. Compress the shock damper to help overcome trapped air pressure to thread the air sleeve to the eyelet. Tighten the air sleeve until hand tight (approximately 45 in-lb/ 5.1 Nm). 

Step 10

Install a new sag indicator o-ring onto the shock body. Add air to your desired pressure by slowly compressing the shock through 25% of its travel 10-20 times after every 50psi addition. Reinstall the black air valve cap.

Step 11

Replace any eyelet hardware and clean the exterior of your shock. You have now completed the rebuild.